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Astro Xbox Live Cam Modification
Xbox Live cam (eBay – £8.99)
Astro webcam nose piece (eBay – £12.75)
Project box – 74mm x 51mm x 26mm (Amazon – LINK – £2.99)
40mm 5v Fan- 3 PIN (Amazon – LINK – £4.99)
40mm fan finger guard (Maplin – JU25C – 99p)
4 x M3 bolts 19mm
8 x M3 washers
4 x M3 nuts
3 x M2 bolts 12mm
12 x M2 nuts
Nuts, bolts & washers from Maplin Code: N53BU - £5.29
1. Pop off the grey focusing ring on the camera
2. Using a screw driver remove the front cover from the camera
3. Remove the pad from the bottom of the webcam and remove all screws and also remove the screws with in the body that connects the base.
4. Remove the 3 screws the hold the PCB to the case and disconnect the USB cable
5. Dismantle the base and use some snips to remove the ‘pivot’ cone of the base that’s on the wire.
6. Carefully drill these three holes to 2~2.5 mm so they will take the M2 bolts
7. With long nose pliers carefully break off the lens of the 4 green LEDs (it’s best to test/check where the LEDs are before you break them)
8. Cut the yellow cable from the fan this is only used for spin detection and is not required for the fan operation
9. Locate the pins from the USB connector and solder the RED and BLACK cables from the fan to Pins 1 and 4 (check these are the correct pins by connecting the USB cable to the board and checking the colours)
10. Test the fan works by connecting the camera to a PC USB port make a note of the air flow from the fan so the fan can be fitted to blow air on to the board. (Note: the camera its self may not work at this stage as two of the holes you’ve drilled are ‘loop backs’ on the PCB thus breaking the connection, don’t worry they will be reconnected when its installed in the case)
11. Mark the lid and base of the case to find a centre point where you want the fan and the lens mounted and drill a 2mm hole
12. Holding the fan finger guard on the lid mark where the four holes will need to be to mount the fan on the diagonal lines and drill them to 3.5~4mm
13. Using a hole cutter, cut a 35~40mm hole in the lid of the case.
14. On the case drill a 15mm hold for the lens of the camera.
15. Remove the focusing ring and put the lens mount of the camera through the hole then replace the focusing ring to protect CCD/CMOS chip
16. Carefully line-up and drill three 2~2.5mm holes through the previously drilled holes on the cameras PCB through the case.
17. Remove the PCB replacing the focusing ring to protect the CCD/CMOS chip
18. Place the lid and the base of the case together and drill a 3mm hole along the seam of the case for the USB cable to pass through
19. Mark the case and drill any required ventilation holes for the air to escape.
20. Using the M3 Nuts bolts and Wasters mount the fan on the lid of the case
21. As per the diagram below put the three M2 bolts in to the case and double up the nuts thus giving making a spacer for the PCB to sit on (Note: this should also be the approximate height of the lens mounting bracket)
22. Install the PCB on to the three M2 bolts and secure buy doubling up the M2 nuts on the top of the PCB. (remember to replace the focusing ring to protect the CCD/CMOS chip)
23. It should now look something like this
24. Install the lid and test the camera is still working after the mod. I have also opted for a nose piece so it is more stable in my telescope focuser.
25. As an after mod I've added a switch to isolate the fan in case the vibration of the fan caused any movement in imageing.
END OF PROCESS (Enjoy!)
EOS DC Power
USB Focus Controller